John Bailey – A Aromatic Epitaph

It was with nice unhappiness we discovered that John Bailey, former President of The British Society of Perfumers and famend artisan perfumer of The Perfumers Guild, died on Wednesday twenty second 2023.

John was one of many kindest and most insightful males in all the perfume business. He was beneficiant with that in depth expertise and huge data, too, and will all the time be relied on to assist us with analysis – typically throwing in scented snippets of data that made us gasp. Jo Fairley, who co-founded The Fragrance Society, and counted John as a pricey buddy, commented:

‘John was a life pressure throughout the business, and his ardour for perfumery was unrivalled. These of us who knew and revered him will miss him – and his scented missives! – very a lot.’

The British Society of Perfumers assertion learn:

‘As one member of the society put it: ”John was the beating coronary heart of the British Society of Perfumers”. He joined the society in 2009 and was president from 2012 to 2014. He was solely the second President to tackle two years on the helm after Robert Favre in 1963.

Throughout his Presidency John was the driving pressure behind the writing and publication of the ebook celebrating the fiftieth Anniversary of the BSP. He remained lively on Council and organised a number of current occasions together with the go to to the lavender farm in 2022.

John was the primary to obtain the title of Honorary Ambassador to the Society. He took on this position with gusto, giving new members a heat welcome and maintaining in contact with mates of the Society. He had a ardour for the historical past of perfumery particularly within the UK and researched a variety of manufacturers. His profession in perfumery included working for Stafford Allen, Naarden Worldwide and RC Treatt. This wealth of expertise lead him to discovered his impartial consultancy; The Fragrance Guild in 1981.

With sorrow for his passing and pleasure for a life properly lived.💔’

You may learn our evaluation of that sensible ebook within the hyperlink, above. It’s totally important studying for anybody concerned about perfumery, and but represents a scented slice of his encyclopedic data.

Some years in the past, Jo Fairley and I had the good pleasure of spending a day with John at his residence, to be able to interview him for our #ShareMyStash characteristic for The Scented Letter Journal. It was a joyous day of sniffing and reminiscing which we’ll always remember, and we will consider no higher method than for us all to recollect John than to share that piece with you, right here…

‘Barbara Cartland had me fragrancing her bookmarks and scenting her letters’

‘It’s not about what’s within the bottle ­– it’s additionally the tales and the individuals behind them’

[This feature was originally published in issue 28 of The Scented Letter Magazine]

Celebrating his 90^th birthday this yr, John Bailey has had an unrivalled skilled profession – spanning an unimaginable seven many years of scent. As you would possibly anticipate, alongside the way in which, this perfume knowledgeable, scent historian and behind-the-scenes advisor to main manufacturers around the globe has amassed fairly a group – which he shared with Suzy Nightingale…

Pictures: Jo Fairley

There’s no person fairly like John Bailey. It isn’t simply the sky blue eyes, nonetheless twinkling mischievously as he enters his 10^th decade. It isn’t merely the way in which he lavishly perfumes the handwritten letters he nonetheless likes to ship (together with, repeatedly to The Fragrance Society). And it isn’t simply the size of his profession which makes John distinctive in fragrance circles, however the breadth. He started as a ‘lowly laboratory assistant’, as John places it, apprenticed on the age of 14, and labored his method by all the important thing firms within the fragrance world.

Later, he rose to develop into Dame Barbra Cartland’s ‘private perfumer’ and located his personal perfume home, The Perfumers Guild, to create bespoke fragrances for a choose clientele. Extra lately, he held the position of President of the British Society of Perfumers. Fairly merely, if the British fragrance world had a nationwide treasure, John Bailey is it.

And when John despatched us a photograph of his ‘summerhouse’ (a really precisely-packed shed on the backside of the backyard, stuffed together with his fragrance stash), The Fragrance Society’s co-founder Jo Fairley and determined we couldn’t wait any longer to hop on a prepare and see John on his residence turf.

From the second we stepped into John’s automobile – fragranced by one among his personal lovely blends, wafting by the air filters – we realised that fragrance pervades each space of his life. Over tea and biscuits, served by his spouse Sheila in an immaculate conservatory (a congratulatory diamond marriage ceremony card from Her Majesty The Queen propped on a aspect desk), John chuckled as he mirrored on the timeline of his skilled life, ‘I feel the way in which to clarify it to you actually is that my profession has developed somewhat than been deliberate.’ And evolve it most definitely did…

Humbly reflecting that he ‘wasn’t a lot good at something at college… my sister was the brainy one,’ it was John’s mother and father who gently nudged him to develop into an apprentice to John Richardson & Co, an old-established agency of producing chemists, druggists and distillers in his residence city of Leicester. ‘They made every little thing, tablets, potions, lotions, tinctures, veterinary preparations; lozenges…’

All of it started with these humble lozenges – which he spent his days hand-making completely for the Brompton Hospital London. ‘The combination was kneaded and ready with a particular share of the important oils – issues like English peppermint oil –  then rolled, reduce out and stamped. An apprentice like me must re-do that many times, weighing them precisely. If the burden wasn’t proper, it meant the dosage of the important oil wasn’t appropriate. Later, I found it’s t’s precisely the identical method if you’re weighing out substances for perfumes. You must be correct.’

Quickly it grew to become clear that John’s ardour lay within the botanical/aromatics aspect of the enterprise. As he explains: ‘In these days pharmacies would bulk purchase fragrances which they’d pour into their very own bottles to promote.’ The chemists retailers steadily purchased them from the identical provider they sourced lozenges and different medicinals from – and earlier than lengthy, John was studying methods to mix perfumes.

The following step of John’s profession was ‘excellent fortune’, he displays. He joined a famend retail chemist, Cecil Jacobs, who’d arrange store beneath the Grand Resort, Leicester. Jacobs’s subsequent takeover of an historic apothecary allowed John to be educated in each single side of gross sales, advertising and marketing, sourcing substances, the merchandising and making of high quality fragrances, cosmetics and toiletries. (There’s most likely no person in all the fragrance universe who’s had so rounded a coaching.) Maybe his best stroke of excellent fortune was assembly a fellow worker, nevertheless – Sheila, with whom he has three daughters.

From there, it was a leap to the old-established Quaker firm of Stafford Allen (SAS), growers and distillers of important oils. ‘I spent months in each single division there earlier than they despatched me out as their technical consultant. I by no means stopped studying. It wasn’t like right now when to develop into a perfumer you’re required to go to ISIPCA or do specialised coaching,’ John displays. ‘This was studying on the job.’

Curiously, this provides him nice respect for the rising quantity self-taught area of interest perfumers round right now. ‘To my thoughts there’s no level getting in your excessive horse and saying, “properly these individuals haven’t been educated at such and such a spot” – as a result of that was typically the outdated method, too!’

He clearly remembers the time when the position of ‘evaluator’ was devised – the people whose position is as a bridge between consumer and perfumer, to-ing and fro-ing to make sure the transient is fulfilled to their satisfaction. ‘It was a lot to the disgust of the perfumers, who thought “who the hell are these individuals coming in and telling us to tinker with our formulation?”’

From 1979-1981, he then went to work for the perfume home RC Treatt, establishing a perfumery from scratch. To the misery of John and his crew, nevertheless, out of the blue the entire enterprise was axed – and for the primary time he discovered himself out of a job. ‘However it gave me the push to go impartial’, John asserts. ‘I believed proper, that’s it, I’m by no means working for anybody once more. So I launched my firm, The Perfumer’s Guild…’

John’s first bespoke fragrance was for the Royal Nationwide Rose Society – a quintessential English rose scent, merely known as Society, with the primary bottle going to Penelope Keith, then to Felicity Kendal and different celebrities who’d had roses named for them.

His subsequent consumer? None apart from Dame Barbara Cartland – she of the pink frocks, the fluffy canines and the Rolls Royce. (Later, additionally stepgrandmother to Diana, Princess of Wales, by the wedding of her daughter Rayne to Earl Spencer.) Having learn a newspaper article through which the eccentric, bestselling romance authoress bemoaned the decline in requirements of perfumery, John wrote her a letter providing to make a scent specifically for her. It went down so properly that he was retained – like a modern-day Jean-Louis Fargeon to Marie Antoinette, maybe – to create all of the fragrances in her wardrobe. The primary fragrance he made for Dame Barbara had the suitably Cartland-esque title of Scent of Romance – ‘an Oriental, very decadent and wealthy. She additionally had me fragrancing bookmarks and scenting her letters.’ On one event, he remembers, he even discovered himself being introduced at a international reception at a five-star resort by a uniformed footman as ‘Mr John Bailey, Ambassador to Dame Barbara Cartland!’

John was one of many first Western perfumers to make use of oudh – and reveals us a powerful gold metallic chest, containing a pile of this treasured Arabian wooden. By no means resting on his laurels, it seems he was additionally concerned in reviving the distinguished British fragrance home Atkinsons, through his buddy Michael Edwards (creator of Fragrance Legends and the fragrance business ‘annual’, Fragrances of the World). Michael launched him to the brand new Italian homeowners, after they’d purchased Atkinsons into their fold. ‘He mentioned to me: “These individuals have misplaced loads of their historical past and so they’re undecided what to do with this treasure” – so I grew to become the officially-appointed researcher, earlier than the relaunched. I’m thrilled that they’re now going to open in Burlington Arcade – actually simply across the nook from the place this fragrance home first began.’

However leaving apart his fascinating private historical past, we had been additionally right here to see John’s assortment. So John led us to the summerhouse through which he shops his jaw-dropping stash, glass cabinets and cabinets groaning with every little thing from Potter & Moore Lavender to Esteé Lauder Dazzling Silver, an authentic Youth Dew, Military & Navy Eau de Cologne, Triple Extract Wooden Violet and extra. ‘I’ve no thought what number of bottles I’ve received. A number of hundred I suppose. It’s not all the time about what’s within the bottle – for me the bottles themselves maintain a fascination, the tales and the individuals behind them.’

Again in the home, Jo and I needed to ask if Sheila (who fuelled us with tea, biscuits and mini mince pies all through the interview) was equally into fragrance. Her throaty chuckle and candid reply – ‘Nicely, to be sincere with you I’m not that bothered about it, nowadays!’ – made us chuckle, as did her affectionate assertion that John was ‘obsessive about perfume’.

At first, John tried to disclaim this. However then this gentleman and scent scholar seemed across the in any other case immaculate home, with its research full of what have to be each perfume ebook ever written, its large factices (outsized show bottles) and numerous fragrance flacons from each period on show. (By no means thoughts that shed itself.)

‘Nicely, alright,’ he lastly smiled, ‘I suppose you might say I’m obsessed…’

JOHN’S TOP 10

Or somewhat, 11. As a result of after seven many years within the fragrance enterprise, it appeared churlish to disclaim John Bailey an additional ‘decide’…

Atkinson’s 24 Outdated Bond Road ‘An exquisite relaunch and redesign – they’ve been so intelligent with the flask.’

Chanel ‘From the aesthetic perspective, their simplicity is totally sensible. All they’ve needed to do is tweak the bottle over time – as a result of it’s perfection.’

Coty (plenty of classic treasures) ‘We now have a buddy who was a flight engineer for Concorde and he discovered this bottle for me at a flea market in Ludlow. Similar to the classic Molton Brown, isn’t it?’

YSL Opium ‘The bottle designer Pierre Dinand informed me a few years in the past, after I was working with him, that only some of those authentic necklaces had been produced and so I treasure this.’

Guerlain Mitsouko ‘One of many best fragrances ever created.’

Cartier Panthère ‘A fully distinctive bottle design.’

Clarins Eau Dynamiste ‘An excellent instance of a perfume completely suiting the model. A tonic scent that’s form of a twist on Eau Sauvage.’

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle ‘Good packaging and bottles – so outrageous placing it in a tin! The perfume that launched Francis Kurkdjian’s profession, in fact.’

Miss Dior Unique ‘Such a cherished title. I labored with the perfumer Jean Carles’ son, Marcel, at one time. I feel I nonetheless have a duplicate of the unique components for this, someplace!’

Givenchy Ysatis ‘Gorgeous bottle – one other Pierre Dinand particular.’

Perfumer’s Guild ‘Apart from “Society”, we used household names for the perfumes – together with these of our daughters.’

John Bailey – In our scent recollections endlessly.

R.I.P

Written by Suzy Nightingale