To not point out the pig wearing lace-trimmed grey silk, the panda in pearls, or the frog sporting a tan go well with plus crimson necktie. They’re all a part of designer, artist, and educator Rémy Rotenier‘s newest effective jewellery assortment, his first in a while, and it’s a collection of diamond-set unisex brooches. Entitled Rémanimals, the items mix Rotenier’s superlative aptitude for freehand drawing with state-of-the-art lapidary carving. In addition they connect with a vogue second that’s placing brooches, significantly males carrying brooches, on the middle of many conversations each time they seem on the pink carpet and past.
Like a lot of probably the most whimsical jewellery we’ve seen currently, the inspiration for the gathering got here to Rotenier through the COVID-19 lockdown, which he spent at his dwelling in Albuquerque, N.M., along with his husband and Boston terrier.
“Whereas I’ve all the time cherished incorporating animals into jewellery in my very own work and for different high-end jewelers, this was a time after I assume many people spent a whole lot of time at dwelling with our animals, and I believe for lots of people there have been moments of discovery with the animals, how grounding they have been, how unbelievable they have been,” says Rotenier, who was born in France and skilled on the Place Vendôme in Paris early in his 39-year jewellery profession. He provides that he “actually wished to design one thing that celebrated animals as a result of they’d saved us in a single piece” throughout that tough interval of isolation and uncertainty.
The design of the Rémanimals borrows from a basic fashion often known as the Essex brooch, which was a reverse-carved painted portrait miniature fashionable through the Victorian period. Rotenier remembers being interested in Essex brooches when he lived in Paris and would go to the antiques sellers throughout the road from the Louvre.
In England, Essex brooches have been first popularized by the journey fanatic Thomas Prepare dinner, who introduced them again from Belgium. The English, legendary for his or her love of horses and canines, have been quickly calling them Essex brooches, after artist William Essex, who specialised in enamel miniatures and was a favourite of Queen Victoria.
Rotenier’s model of the brooches start with a drawing of the creature in query (examples beneath). The designer has painted effective artwork miniatures at varied factors in his profession for many years and is taken into account a grasp artist relating to jewellery rendering methods. Actually, subsequent week at AGTA GemFair, he will likely be internet hosting an MJSA-sponsored seminar to current a step-by-step information to drawing pearls.
The pictures of the animals are then reverse-carved into rock crystal cabochons after which reverse-painted in oil. This work is carried out by a talented lapidary artist from Germany that Rotenier related with one yr on the Tucson Gem Present.
“She covers the cabochons on the underside with a plaque of mother-of-pearl, and it’s stunning as a result of when you take a look at the picture from the highest, you get the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl with the loupe-like like impact from the cabochon crystal,” says Rotenier. “That’s when it turns into an actual jewel that you just set in gold.”
The painted rock crystal portraits are then framed in sterling silver set with diamonds and completed with 22k gold bezels. All the things is made in the USA.
“I wished the brooch itself to be extra geometric and extra fashionable than these prized possessions from the Victorian period,” says Rotenier, “so that at the beginning look, you already know you aren’t taking a look at your great-grandmother’s brooch, however extra of a revival of one thing that that had a lot allure. And we needed to make it related for at present’s tastes.”
Every Rémanimal is $5,800 and customized designs begin at $6,400. “The consumer turns into part of the design course of, similar to any well-run customized design session besides it entails your greatest animal,” says Rotenier. He’s presently engaged on fairly a number of customized orders, together with one starring a cat named Miso who will likely be styled within the consumer’s spouse’s favourite Gucci gown. #Rarrw!
Prime: Designer Rémy Rotenier immortalized his beloved Boston terrier, Zuzu, on this portrait. “I wished to decorate him like I gown as a result of he’s my canine—the pink shirt, the Air France–blue jacket,” says the designer. “And he has a warmer pink tie, which I actually favored. He’s turning his head to take a look at you. And that’s typical of the best way he seems to be. I really like when he first seems to be at you after you name him. That’s what I attempted to seize.”
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